I was down with a dose of Dengue, so I have missed my regular morning walks. If you haven’t had a case of ‘breakbone fever’, keep it that way. It’s not fun, and there is some hallucinating. One night, I truly thought my cats were eating me. Another day, I was searching for the body of Ambrose Bierce.
All I could remember about Bierce was from a story of a letter that he was supposed to have written:
“I want to go down and see if these Mexicans can shoot straight – goodbye. If you hear of me being stood up against a Mexican stone wall and shot to pieces, know that I think that’s a pretty good way to depart this life. It beats old age, disease, or falling down the cellar stairs. To be a gringo in Mexico, ah, that is euthanasia.”
Rumors swirled that Pancho Villa himself had killed Ambrose. Villa denied it, claiming he had never even met Bierce. Other journalists in the country covering the revolution said they had never seen the old man. Stories of him being executed by firing squad appeared in many American newspapers, but a body was never found.
That’s enough of Ambrose; this morning was an abbreviated walk from Juanitos with visits to a few of the merchants with shops on the Boulevard Miguel de la Madrid.
A few doors down from Juanitos is the office and gallery for the Mex-Eco tour company.
What you can’t tell from the storefront is that inside is a gallery of arts and crafts from many regions of Mexico; intricate silver jewelry of Taxco, colorful woven textiles of Oaxaca, and pottery from Puebla’s Talavera. A delightful lady named Cecilia manages the shop and would love to have you visit. Her English is great, and she will regale you with stories and history of the many cultures of this wonderful land.
There’s always a plastic chair or two next to the coconut lady’s truck so that’s my next stop. It’s a perfect spot shaded by a massive Huanacaxtle tree; a natural lay-by for a visit.
After conversation, some coconut water and rest, it’s another half block past the lavanderia to the local ferreteria.
These neighborhood hardware stores always amaze me. They’re never much more than a single garage door entrance at the front, but if you’re lucky enough to be invited beyond the sales counter, you’ll realize the facade is merely the tip of the iceberg.
Backstage, these shops are like the vast catacombs of Guanajuato. Whatever it is you need, these stores will have it. Light bulbs, electrical and plumbing, power and hand tools, bug spray, paint, and gardening supplies. And if you’re willing to invest the time and effort with translation, you can even get advice.
That’s it for this morning’s walk. If you’re out and about, viajar seguro.
