Pilgrimage to Talpa de Allende

by Shirley Fastner
I was already enroute to my favorite local Vallarta pilgrim destination, when I realized it was exactly the seventh anniversary of the death of my mother. It was a perfect day for a pilgrimage to Talpa de Allende, Jalisco.

Three million people a year travel to this Virgin of Talpa town on foot, bicycle, horseback, bus, or car. Do not go there on one of the many religious holidays, or you will be sleeping on the sidewalk as some pilgrims apparently do. Because of this, there are plenty of hotels for all budgets and restaurants, but do check the calendar.

Some pilgrims walk from as far away as Vallarta or Guadalajara. And, you will see many doing the last stretch on their knees, particularly from the entrance of the magnificent Basilica of our Lady of Talpa all the way to the altar honoring this tiny special Virgin encased there.

The story behind this miracle-laden originally straw figure of the miniature miraculous Virgin holding an even smaller baby Jesus, encased in this stunning 300-year-old church is long. There is actually an older church a block away, which originally housed the Virgin, but a bigger basilica was later constructed.

There is even a wonderful basilica museum displaying the brilliant garments the Virgin of Talpa wears. Many people come from afar asking for miracles or to thank the Virgin Mary for miracles many claim have already been granted, some with tears in their eyes and some in wheelchairs or on crutches.

I watched a group of big men go forward to the altar on their knees with spurs sticking straight up into the air, and sure enough, seven horses were tied up outside the door. It is a very moving sight.

Talpa is also known for candy, particularly its guayaba rolls, which are made in a big machine and rolled out in every third shop there, which you can sample. Bottles of rompope, an alcoholic type of eggnog, is another popular local item.

I love the Sierra Madre Mountain towns near Vallarta, and though I have visited the several contiguous Pueblo Magico towns multiple times, last year, I decided to take the four-hour trip to Talpa and stay overnight. I repeated the trip this year as the ride through the mountains is so magnificent. You can take the easy bus ride on the ATM line, Autotransportes Talpa Mascota, NOT to be confused with the ATM buses that go to La Cruz and Punta de Mita.  Yes, they have a similar name.

The hardest part is finding the bus station in Versalles, which is completely walled in, and you would never know it existed. However, if you are a foodie and have been to the Italian restaurant, La Fiamma, next door to the wall, you will find it, providing you can find the restaurant. It is only a few blocks in from the bus stop for the beginning of the lines of the Compostela and other ATM buses across from the Coppel store on the main highway.

You must buy your tickets at the station and seats are assigned. A daily 9 am bus goes to La Estancia, Mascota, and finally, Talpa. If you want to go to San Sebastian, you must take a cab about 7 miles from the station in La Estancia.

It is interesting to see fir trees along the way. In fact, one of the tourist attractions in Talpa is a tour of a maple forest, however, this is something I have at home in Chicago.

There is a beautiful lookout at the Monumento de Cristo Rey (Christ statue) above town, which requires a fairly easy hike up a paved street lined with murals and is definitely worth it.

By the way, there are organized trips on horseback directly over the mountains from Vallarta to these towns, but I prefer the bus! I highly recommend that you visit one, two, or all three of these contiguous towns for something completely different.

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