by Trevor Carolan
Morning starts a little earlier in the highlands of West Mexico outside Vallarta. The sun takes its time to rise, and there’s the shady canopy of mango, African Tulip, Elephant Ear, and more. The air is pleasantly cool.
As the mist burns off, colorful Warblers and Gnatcatchers fleck the bush. Pushy Cinnamon Hummingbirds boss their way to the bougainvillea flowers, and chickens scratch among compact houses in clearings of hibiscus. The whack-whack of a Golden-cheeked Woodpecker reminds you that it’s good to duck all the town-bustle now and then.
Birds in Puerto Vallarta make it fairly easy to spot them. The Malecon and Isla Cuale in the little river reached by several footbridges are great walking areas, and we enjoy the Isla’s shade for browsing and jazz in the evenings. Orange-fronted Parrots flock the foliage along the river where snowy white Egrets, Little Blue Herons and, occasionally, an elegant Kestrel hawk are likely wading for prey or bathing.
Birders love Puerto Vallarta. It’s situated in one of the continent’s five top avian zones and receives seasonal migration from both Northern and South America. Kids delight in seeing comical Brown Pelicans heave in flight across the Cuale’s estuary mouth, and Black-legged Stilts wade busily beneath the Malecon’s pedestrian bridge.
A short, ten-peso bus ride from Centro to the Rio Pitillal area across Hwy 200 from Las Islas shopping plaza offers one of Vallarta’s best walks. Check your Google Maps. A bonanza of lovely birds can be seen along either leafy side of the river. You’ll join a steady group of strollers and will thank Vallarta’s elders for preserving this safe, green oasis so close to the visitor hotels up the road. Half a dozen beautiful Crane, Ibis, and Heron species are likely to appear without notice.
You can find guidebooks or pamphlets to identify them at bookshops like A Page In The Sun on Plaza Lázaro Cárdenas near Los Muertos beach.
Along the river, trees are alive with yellow Kiskadees and three types of gorgeous Orioles will make your heart sing on seeing them. With luck, or advice from a friendly birder, you might spot a dazzling red Summer Tanager or exotic, long-tailed Squirrel Cuckoo.
Got visitors? The Estuario Salado on Highway 200 is a compact spot worth sharing. There’s a giant crocodile rehabbing from injury in a safe display-pit to thrill children, and a short walk to the water will show you what a mangrove swamp looks like. Bug-spray recommended! There is a short, active viewing trail. Best of all, it’s free and has baños. Open 9-4 daily.
Vallarta’s sophisticated but still casual oceanside Marina District with eating and refreshment spots is a ten-minute stroll up the road. You’ll find The Living Room books and coffee lounge there, too.
Since my first interview as a young reporter with Janis Joplin at The Fillmore in Haight-Ashbury days, I’ve loved music. You can bop after dark in the Zona Romántica, but how about a groovy matinée gig for beach-bums with early bedtimes? Get hip to this timely tip! Saturdays in Colonia Versalles, check out Café Carmesi at the Francia and Lucerne corner.
From 11 am ‘till 1 pm, there’s a jazz-latin trio percolating in the shade and you’ll think you’ve landed in swinging Havana. Lenin Lopez and Jorge Acosta on guitars and vocals, and Israel Percución on hand-drums lay down stylish Bossa Nova, rhythmic tunes, and a little Elvis for the ladies. Good coffee and eats, with vibes so cool the sidewalk fills with dancing hipsters.
Sunday mornings, Chris Acosta plays elegant solo violin. An evening out? Anais Belloso has the smoothest voice in town. Think Norah Jones in two breathy languages. She’s at La Traviata on Thursdays with Oscar Terrazas, who plays the sweetest sax around.
Then solo at Café Roma, 7-9 pm, and El Rey Lounge Tuesdays and Fridays. Oscar plays the River Café Tuesday, 6-8 pm, and Saturday evenings. Forget your troubles and fill your soul with gladness, amigos. It’s why we love Vallarta!
